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I am super excited to teach you all of my top tips for embroidery onto clothing!
One of the BEST things about learning hand embroidery, is using your awesome skills to stitch onto functional pieces, like clothing and accessories.
It is SO much fun, and super rewarding when you get to wear your beautiful creations!
I’ve been doing a lot of testing and research on this topic, and I’ve learnt that it’s definitely a lot more challenging than you might think. This is because clothing is a lot more varied in terms of the fabrics and shapes of what you’re trying to stitch on. This makes it trickier to turn the area you want to stitch into a nice firm platform. Any design you stitch onto clothing will also need to be able to withstand more wear and washing than a piece that’s destined to be art on your wall.
But you know what? I’ve absolutely loved the whole process, and even though it’s extra challenging, it’s also extra rewarding!
In this blog, I’ve shared all my key learnings to date on this topic, so that you can feel really confident and excited to give it a go yourself.
I want to note that this isn’t a comprehensive guide, that you can follow for a perfect result. Because the nature of stitching onto your own clothing and accessories means that each project will have its own unique challenges.
You’ll need to go on your own journey, but you can rest assured that you’ll be starting from a great place after reading this blog. And I just know you’ll love it, learn lots, and create some amazing, beautiful pieces that you’ll be so proud to wear!
Before we go any further, I want to let you know that I've also collated all of these tips and learnings into a pdf download. Which makes it super easy for you to save and refer to my tips whenever you need to.
You can keep scrolling to read this blog, or jump straight to my pdf guide.
Just head here to grab your free copy!
Ok so let’s get started on my key tips and learnings!
As with usual hand embroidery, you can stitch on most fabrics, but some will be much more enjoyable and give you a way better chance of success!
I recommend washing any new clothing before you do any hand embroidery on it, just in case it shrinks a bit or the colour runs.
Also, if it’s a precious piece of clothing, I definitely recommend you practice on a test piece first (test both the stitching and how colourfast your threads are).
In a nutshell, stabilisers help to provide structure to firm up your fabric, and prevent your designs from distorting as you stitch along.
Stabilisers are something you do need to consider when you’re embroidering onto clothing. You see, usually we place a flat piece of fabric in a hoop, and pull it really taut – this creates a lovely firm platform to stitch upon. But clothing is naturally a bit trickier to hoop in this way. For example, it might be an unusual shape, with seams and edges that make it tricky to hoop the area you want to stitch on. Or it might be too delicate or thick to dress in a hoop. Also, dressing stretchy fabric in a hoop might distort the shape of your design.
So by using a stabiliser, you can reinforce the area you want to stitch upon – this creates a more stable platform, which is more enjoyable and manageable to stitch on. Plus, it helps prevent the shape of your design from stretching and distorting while you stitch along.
You can use stabiliser on its own, or double it up with using a hoop (this is what I usually do). If you do use a hoop, make sure you apply the stabiliser first. See the hoops section for more on this topic.
You can also find stabilisers which double as a backing for finished embroidery. This means that you apply the material to the underside of your design after you’ve stitched it, to protect and cover the stitches (handy if you have sensitive skin).
These are fantastic! You basically draw or print your design on the sheet of stabiliser, cut it out into a patch, and then stick it onto your clothing (positioning it where you want your design to sit). Then you stitch your design right onto the stabiliser patch, and rinse off the stabiliser when you’re finished.
I love how easy this makes the process, because you can easily see your design, and it really helps firm up the area you’re stitching on.
The downside is that they make your needle quite sticky (which can make it harder to push through your fabric) and you have to wet your design to wash it off. But I find the benefits totally outweigh any downsides.
This type of stabiliser performs a totally different role to the ‘Stick and Stitch’ patches. You apply it after you’ve finished stitching.
Firstly, it protects the underside of your stitches so that they experience less friction during general wear and washing – this means they’re less likely to unravel.
Second, it provides a layer in between your skin and the stitched design, which prevents any irritation and scratchiness that might occur – this can be helpful with baby clothes and anyone with sensitive skin.
I personally haven’t found this necessary on the designs I’ve stitched, but it’s totally up to you if you want to apply a backing.
Recommended product:Sulky Tender Touch “Cover-a- stitch”, which is quite a lightweight option that goes with the drape of your fabric. It can also be used as a regular stabiliser on very light-weight fabric.
NOTE:You’ll find the detailed step by step instructions on how to use Sulky Stick & Stitch stabiliser and Sulky Tender Touch at the end of this blog.
This depends on the weight of the clothing you’re stitching on, but you’ll generally need quite a sturdy needle when you’re using stabilisers and stitching onto clothing that’s medium weight and heavier.
And you’ll most likely go through more needles than you’re used to (they have to work harder for you!).
If you’re working with heavier-weight fabrics, you can look to use sturdier needles (e.g. darning needles). But bear in mind you don’t want to leave visible holes in your fabric, which could happen if you’re using a needle that’s bigger than required.
I have found that the standard embroidery needles work well with cotton and denim – I use sizes 3-5. They get bent out of shape occasionally (especially on denim), but it hasn’t been an issue overall. But if there’s a lot of resistance – if you have to push really hard to get the needle through, and it’s pulling the fabric out of shape as you do – that’s a sign you could move to using a larger needle.
It’s important to use a good quality thread that’s colourfast (i.e., it won’t bleed colour when it’s washed). This means you can wash your hand stitched clothing without worrying that the colours in the design will leak onto the fabric.
DMC threads are marketed as colourfast, but I still recommend you take care with washing them (e.g. don’t use super-hot water).
If you’re not sure whether the threads you’re using are colourfast, you can cut a small piece of thread and lay it on a light coloured test piece of fabric, wet them both, and then check if the colour runs onto the fabric. If no colour bleeds out, you should be good to go.
Using a hoop is a fantastic way to get your fabric nice and taut, creating a more stable platform to stitch upon – which in turn makes it more enjoyable and easier to stitch your design.
When it comes to clothing, the same applies, and if you’re able to hoop the area you want to stitch on, I definitely recommend it. It helps prevent your fabric from puckering or going too floppy while you’re stitching along.
This applies even when you’re using a stabiliser – for example I apply a Stick & Stitch patch, and then dress the area in a small hoop.
Having said that, if you feel like your fabric (with or without stabiliser) is firm enough in its own right to stitch directly onto, you can go ahead and stitch your design without using a hoop.
Overall, this is definitely an area where you’ll need to use trial and error to get comfortable with it. And it will really depend on the fabric of the clothing that you’re stitching onto. But don’t overthink it, just embrace enjoying the process!
When it comes to stitching onto clothing and accessories, you basically stitch along as you usually would, using all your general hand embroidery skills.
But it is definitely more challenging to stitch clothing, compared to a plain piece of fabric. But my goodness, it’s so worth it!
Following on from all the tips above, there are certain stitches that I definitely recommend over others, when it comes to embroidery onto clothing. Of course, you can totally try any stitches you like, but here’s my thoughts:
Fav stitch techniques for embroidery onto clothing:
Ones I’ve actively avoided:
Clothing will undergo more wear and washing than a piece of embroidery art that you display on the wall, so you need to pay extra consideration to how securely your stitches are held in place. There are a few points to consider:
See the example below of what the underside of my stitching looks like (this is after it’s been washed and dried a couple of times).
Note: This is the same method as what I do on usual embroidery.
When you’ve finished stitching, weave your needle under a nearby stitch.
Before you pull all the slack through, leave a little loop, and duck your needle back through the loop.
Gently pull it tight to form a knot, so that it sits flush with the underside of your fabric. It helps if you hold the fabric around the knot firm at this point, so that it doesn’t get pulled out of shape as you tighten the knot. You can do a second knot at this point if you wish.
Then weave your tail under nearby stitches at least a couple of times, so that ideally at least 10mm of tail is tucked into the design. Then you can snip it off quite close to the fabric.
This is totally optional, but you can add a backing to the underside of your design, to reduce the amount of friction your stitches are exposed to over time.
To learn more, go to the section about Stabilisers – ‘Cover a stitch’ style backings earlier in this blog.
Most experts recommend that you hand wash only, and line dry, rather than using a clothes dryer. This is gentler on the stitches and means they’ll hold in place for longer, and stay in nicer condition.
You’ll probably find that your stitches shrink a bit through washing, and they get a bit wavy, clustered together, and possibly fuzzy. As a result, it’s unlikely you’ll be able to retain the lovely soft, satiny look you achieve pre-washing (and that you get to admire with hoops that go straight on the wall). But overall, it should still look great.
I have been throwing my embroidered clothing in the washing machine on a standard cycle, and line drying them. I’ve totally avoided using a clothes dryer. I’ve found that my stitching has all held up well so far. I find that after the first wash, the embroidery feels a bit stiff and taut. But after a second wash, it feels a lot softer and nicer.
So this part of the journey is definitely something you can experiment with too, especially if you’re like me and don’t want to spend your energy hand washing things.
Just be aware that any machine washing and drying will shorten the lifespan of your embroidered designs.
I would also recommend using a delicate wash setting, and a ‘delicates’ washing bag if possible.
See the images below for an example of how the stitches wear after a few cycles through the washing machine.
If you’re concerned about preserving your stitches, you can apply a permanent backing over the underside, which will protect them in the washing process.
To learn more, go to the section about Stabilisers – ‘Cover a stitch’ style backings earlier in this blog.
And if you are particularly concerned about colour in the threads bleeding, definitely check out the manufacturers washing guidelines for more info.
Here’s a breakdown of how I use Sulky Sticky Fabri-Solvy. This will be similar to using other brands such as DMC Magic Paper. You can also refer to the usage instructions on the manufacturers packaging and website.
Here’s my method:
Trace or free-hand draw your design on a sheet of the Sticky Fabri-Solvy (the stabiliser material).
TIPS:
Now cut out your design into a patch, leaving a margin of at least 10mm. Also, make sure you cut a shape that has curved corners, so that they don’t easily catch and pull up.
Remove the backing, and smooth the patch (sticky side down) to the right/front-side of your fabric, in the exact spot that you wish to stitch your design on.
TIPS:
OPTIONAL: At this point, you can dress your fabric in a hoop if you choose to.
Now stitch your design right over the top of the stabiliser, onto your fabric.
Now it’s time to remove the patch of stabiliser.
Immerse the entire area in luke warm water. Wait a few moments, and you’ll see it become more see- through and dissolvable.
You can now gently use your fingers to rub away the stabiliser patch, and most will come off really easily. Sometimes the bits right beside the stitches need a gentle rub to encourage them off.
If preferred, you can do this under running water as opposed to a water bath.
Then once it looks like all of the stabiliser has been removed, gently squeeze out the dripping water (or pat between towels) until it feels ready to line dry.
Once I’ve washed off the patch, I generally wash the entire piece right away. The stitched design can feel a bit stiff when it first dries, but it’s usually a lot softer after a second wash.
And it’s as easy as that!
Here’s a breakdown of how I use Sulky Tender Touch. You can also refer to the usage instructions on the manufacturer’s packaging and website.
First, cut out a piece so that it’s about half 1 an inch (approx. 1.2cm) wider than the design. Make sure that you cut curved corners, rather than sharp corners which might catch and pull up.
Then place the patch over the underside of your finished embroidery, with the coarse side down. You’ll be able to tell which is the coarse side by touch (the other side is quite a bit smoother).
Now iron the material on, by pressing for 10 - 15 seconds until it fuses (sticks) to the fabric. The recommended temperature is 250 – 270 degrees Fahrenheit (120 – 130 degrees Celsius). It’s a good idea to test your fabric first, in terms of the heat tolerance.
And that’s all there is to it!
Washability: This is a permanent backing, which is designed to withstand washing. Having said that, its ability to stick will depend on how well it was adhered in the first place, and whether you are hand washing or throwing it in the machine. The Sulky brand blog suggests that if you are having difficulty with it coming off, you should cut the Tender Touch with pinking shears (the ones that give the zig- zagged edge) and to iron it on with steam.
So there we have it, a whole bunch of tips to get you started on your journey with embroidery onto clothes and accessories.
I really hope you now feel confident about how it all works. But most of all, I hope you feel super excited to dive into it! Because I know how rewarding it is – not only do you get some lovely rewarding me time... you get to enjoy wearing your special creations!
If you enjoyed learning all about embroidery onto clothing, then you are probably dying to get started! So the perfect next step for you, is to grab my pattern guide 'Happy Designs for Clothing'.
In this guide, you'll find a dozen super cute designs that are perfect for your to practice your news skills of stitching onto clothing.
Each of the designs also has a stitched example and guide in the pattern, so I basically hold your hand and make it as easy as possible for you to have success with your own stitching!
My Happy Designs for Clothing pattern guide is such a great way for you to practice your new skills!
So, which piece of clothing are you going to stitch onto first?
I would love to hear how you go on your journey, learning to stitch onto clothing.
Make sure you share you progress with me! Just tag me on the 'gram @cleverpoppy.
Happy stitching!
Julie xx
